Saturday, October 17, 2009

Lunch in the Gump: The Immaculate Succulence: Davis Cafe Chicken and Cornbread

Deep in the bowels of north Montgumphery near Brendle Fire on "N" Decatur stands a entymological, epicurial and historical landmark: The Davis Cafe & Lounge. Entymological? Yes. It is the location of the first known usage of the word "succulent" to describe a non-plant i.e. fried chicken. It occurred in 1938 when founder Oscar Davis tried to suck the marrow out of the the hot, juicy chicken breasteses served with turnips, collards and hot cornbread. Prior to then, the word "succulent" was only used to describe certain watery plants. Oscar's mis-use of the word was adopted quickly and today, "juicy good" is the first idea that comes to mind when the word "succulent" is used. Check your dictionary and prior unsanctioned scouting review.

Epicurial? No doubt. Nothing from the kitchen of the Davis Cafe is from frozen source materials. Everything, and I do mean everything except the tubs of fake margerine, is hot, fresh and homemade. Which means you may have to wait a little bit to get your lunch while they actually fry it. The fried chicken may be the best in the Gump--Martin's notwithstanding. Now you have to overlook the less than optimal outside appearance of the place and, perhaps even the seedy interior environs. But if you get past the cover, the "book" can be judged by the content and taste of the authentic soul food the place is famous for. An added benefit is that the cost is very reasonable. You can eat a fine lunch at the Davis Cafe for under $8 (including tip). When you enter just find an open table, the handwritten menu and soon a friendly waitress will be by to take your order.

Historical? I would say so. Legend has it that Cleopatra was crowned as the first African Queen of Egypt by historians at the Davis Cafe. Also, we know that Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. ate there often and probably Rosa Parks had lunch there the day she refused to give up her seat and move to the back of the bus. The place ought to be on the Civil Rights tour. Any day you eat there you may see local judges like Johnny Hardwick or Charlie Price enjoying the homey feel of a place where everyone is welcome. So far, we know of no relation to Congressman Artur Davis but the jury is still out on that.

Bottom line: This place is a classic that is worth the effort to find and the courage to walk through the door of a place that doesn't need flashy signs or decour to attract a loyal following of repeat customers.

I would rate it very high for fried chicken and cornbread. Forget the margerine.

Binion.

Davis Cafe on Urbanspoon

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