Monday, November 2, 2009

Lunch in West Shorter: Wishbone Cafe. Like sands through the hourglass...

LITG is running behind on this week's review because we had a two-hour lunch on Monday, so let us sum up: Wishbone Cafe - inventive Louisiana-style food, better than Wintzell's, as good as Lunde's, creative use of a former Quizno's, some of the best soup we've had... and too slow.

BamaBing! says:
Here is when slow is good: Slow is good when you're having lunch on a Friday in New Orleans with your lady and a crew of good pals, all at a downstairs table at Galatoire's and nobody really has to be anywhere anytime soon, and the group is seriously considering dinner at Galatoire's and then maybe a nice nap back at the hotel before things really get going. Slow is good on a day like that.

But slow is not good if you're having Lunch in the Gump and you've got a table at the Wishbone Cafe and you're with good friends who are way, way outside the friendly confines of the bypass and seriously in danger of losing their menial jobs and/or getting violated back to County by their PO's.

OK. Now that I have sufficiently chastised the Wishbone proprietors for their, uh, deliberate service, it's time to lavish some praise. This unassuming little joint at the end of a strip center way east on Atlanta Highway (emphasis on Atlanta) gets high praise for the funky New Orleans/Cajun/Creole eats. Nothing subtle about the food here. They know where the cayenne pepper is and they know how to use it. It's worth the wait and the couple of extra bucks, and the half-tank of gas.

Binion says - A Tale of Two EateriesIt was the best of luncheon experiences and it was the longest of times. When you pull apart the Wishbone Cafe, someone always gets the short end. Those coupon-clipping Martini-sipping members of the upper crust in no hurry to return to where they pretend to work found the two-hour portal-to-portal-to-portal trip from Dexter Avenue to the Wishbone and back "charming" and "quaint." It is a great place for those who live or work within walking distance and have not a care in the world. However, those with deadlines or a parole officer to report to were, after an hour of enjoying the former Quizno's ambiance, about to jump out of their skins hungry and worried they would be late back to the real Gump.

It also was a better experience for those who had just collected from their local "man" after hitting a three-team teaser. Yes, the Cuban sandwich with honey glaze was different and the soup with the du jour sauce was outstanding. But $16 with tea is pretty steep for Lunch in the Gump not counting the four gallons of gas you burn driving out past AUM from Gumptown.

But, again, the basic problem is the passage of valuable time. On the way back at 1:30 p.m. The Younger and I were remembering "The Chef" in Apocalypse Now who got off his swift boat to fetch some mangoes and got chased by a real tiger: "Never get out of the boat. Never get out of the [freaking] boat!" he ranted when he barely made it back. We said to each other as we raced back to various overripe problems: "Never go outside the by-pass, never go outside the by-pass!" We have learned our lesson.

Tojo Yamamoto responds...Binion too impatient. Need to slow down like Tojo, enjoy Lunch in Gump. Enjoy slow little cajun creole hole in wall. Parole officer too busy with drug dealers and prostitutes, not concerned with white-collar recidivist criminal like Binion. Tojo filled with wonder! Cajun treats cooking in Quiznos conveyor belt roaster oven left behind by former tenant! Quiznos people go broke using conveyor belt roaster oven to make fast sandwich. Wishbone people say "Aha! Why not use Quiznos conveyor belt roaster oven to make shrimp po-boy real slow?" Tojo like zen approach. Tojo like Harry Connick music. Tojo gladly pay $20 for lunch at Wishbone.
















Festively colored dish (Mardi Gras colors?)


NoGritsNoGlory says: Worth the Trip to West Shorter

As a newboy in the Lambda Gammas, I learned two valuable life lessons:


1. Don't take an antsy group of Gumpers to a place that takes longer to get your order in than Longshore takes to play the back nine--especially if it's the first meal since CDT became CST, and the old tummy didn't get the memo.

2. Never get up from the table to take a call--especially if Tojo is within surprise striking distance of your shrimp and pasta.

That said, I am forming a committee (the Make a Wishbone Foundation) to get this incredibly tasty Creole/Cajun/Quiznos eatery to relocate Gumpcenter in the Alleyway. Then Binion can just walk half a block, take half a Ritalin and enjoy the quizine du jour. Remember, an orchid isn't grown overnight.

Editor's note: NGNG is a man of few words.The name of this dish was "Shrimp & Pasta," which seemed like a very simple name for a dish in a place with the "Louis Armstrong" and the "Jeffrey Darter" with a ton of healthy-sized fresh shrimp with andouille sausage and a cream sauce big on "cajuny" spices, garlic and other good stuff. Oh, and pasta. NGNG was good enough to share this fine dish with the other gumpers, which was probably a mistake, because when NGNG very politiely excused himself and walked outside to take a phone call from some fatcat, the remaining gumpers had their way with the remaining shrimp.

BamaBing! adds:Fat Clemenza and I both ordered a dish called the Jeffrey Darter, which was basically sauteed hash-browns (shredded a la Waffle House - excellent!) topped with a spicy sauce topped by a very nicely-spiced grilled chicken breast, topped by some sort of prosciutto or something like that topped with some kind of cheese, served with red beans & rice and bread. It was, as Clemenza said, "over the top." I Googled Jeffrey Darter, expecting that I'd find a famous jazz trombonist or some pirate that haunts the Quarter to this day, but no such luck. When you Google "Jeffrey Darter" all you find is this guy:
Jeffrey Darter
Northwestern Mutual Financial Consultant
Grand Rapids, Michigan

The Soup:
On arrival each Gumper was presented with a sample of the Soup du jour, which was simply outstanding. We asked what kind of soup it was and our oft-missing server hadn't the foggiest idea. In any event, 7 out of 8 gumpers ordered the soup, whatever it was. Here's what it looked like, if anybody can identify this soup:

Soup of the Year

Shadow Pup Pipes In:
1. Bring a New York Times with you to read while you wait.
2. Do not come with a big group of amateur food critics. The conveyor oven is designed to make one order at a time. A group of six throws off the assembly line.
3. Du jour is not a sauce, Binion.
4. Bing, when you write a review--give the address.
5. Wish the Wishbone was downtown.
6. Chase Utley has hit four homey's in the Series! Go Phillies!!!

Wishbone Cafe on Urbanspoon

12 comments:

  1. Scrolling up the post, let's see, there's bama bling, there's binion, even new boy, no grits no glory and my good friend Tojo (who i thought would be looking out for my comments as well), but no Bodiddly. Hmmmm, I guess it doesn't matter that I knew the owner personally, which is why you got (i)the taste of soup, (ii) the white table cloth, (c) the description of how the food is prepared and (d)a forewarning as to the wait. Far be it from an east-coast beyond the bypass boy to be able to get any credit in this group. Even after I saved No Grits from losing his shrimp after one of you boys called his cell phone under the guize as a customer needing 15,000 flyers by 2:00 p.m. making him leave the table just so you could take advantage of his "wet behind the ears" not knowing we eat when you step away. Nevertheless, I'll settle for this little diatribe and a chance to say, I told you so, on all the above, except Yankees are 8-0 in world series ventures where they led 3-1 in games.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Bo: You,like this restaurant, are simply too slow.

    ReplyDelete
  3. BoDiddly... in order to BE a contributor, you have to actually WRITE and SUBMIT a contribution. I am many things to many people but clairvoyant ain't one of them.

    ReplyDelete
  4. ok, folks, here's a Greenville fan...please give me a wee bit better clue as to the location of your eateries...hard to eat at places I can't find.
    --John Galt

    ReplyDelete
  5. I had the soup Du jour with my business partner, Betty C, the other day and I don't know what it was called and I don't think they did either but it was the best!! 2 of us - in and out in less than a hour....no problem. Cheryl A

    ReplyDelete
  6. John, we are terrible reviewers. This establishment is in the Publix strip center at the intersection of Atlanta Highway and Taylor Road. Coming from G'ville, take the Taylor Road exit on I-85, go left past AUM & the hospital and you can actually cut right into the property without getting on ATL Hwy. With apologies, Bing.

    Cheryl, the food was good enough that I'll go back again & again, just not when I'm in a hurry. Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Internal monologue during this long episode...

    "Outside the bypass. Sh*t. I'm still only outside the bypass. Every time I think I'm gonna wake up back in the office"

    and

    "I used to think if I died outside the bypass, then my soul wouldn't be able to make it to heaven. But now?...I don't care where it goes, as long as it ain't here."

    With apologies to the chef and Willard of course.

    ReplyDelete
  8. I'm just saying, there of those of us who no longer have to wear ankle bracelets and report as often to our parole officers, so the eating conditions of west shorter are appealing...

    ReplyDelete
  9. How does this place compare to http://www.unclemickscajunmarketandcafe.com in prattville?

    ReplyDelete
  10. araess - our ankle bracelets are set to explode our legs off if we cross the river. Last time we snuck off to Fat Boy's BBQ R

    ReplyDelete
  11. I'm a server at Wishbone, and I just wanted to let you know you came on an off day. We're almost always very prompt with our service. A good indicator that it might take longer than usual is if every table is occupied, and your "often missing" server is running around serving every single table in the place (it's small, but harder than you would think). Also, Jeffrey Darden is a regular customer, and has been since the place opened. Come often enough and strike up conversations with the staff often enough, and you'll get your own dish, too :)

    ReplyDelete
  12. The gang loves Wishbone Rhiannon. Terrific food.

    ReplyDelete

Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.